Antique Ceramic Deer Brooch by Lucien Neuquelman for Elsa Schiaparelli, 1930
About the Item
- Creator:
- Dimensions:Length: 2.37 in (60 mm)
- Style:Art Nouveau
- Place of Origin:France
- Period:1930-1939
- Date of Manufacture:1930s
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU2861222833482
Elsa Schiaparelli
From her signature color Shocking Pink to her collaborations with Surrealist artists, the boldly original Elsa Schiaparelli transformed fashion with her haute couture house from the late 1920s to the early ’50s. Experimenting with elements like trompe l’oeil images and colorful visible zippers, the Italian designer instilled a provocative avant-garde artistry in her clothing and accessories, including those created with Salvador Dalí, such as the lobster dress and a hat shaped like a shoe.
Born in Rome, Schiaparelli was a rebellious child who grew up among the city’s intellectual elite. She had a voracious appetite for reading and became interested in ancient cultures, astronomy and world religions. Schiaparelli studied philosophy at the University of Rome, and after publishing a collection of poems on love and sensuality that so mortified her conservative parents that they tried, unsuccessfully, to confine her to a Swiss convent, she left for London.
A quick marriage to Count Wilhelm de Wendt de Kerlor brought her to New York, but it would be in Paris following her divorce that Schiaparelli embraced her artistic passions. She moved to the French capital city in 1922 with her young daughter and happened to meet master couturier Paul Poiret, who loaned the stylish Schiaparelli his clothes, sparking her own fashion interests.
Schiaparelli opened her modest atelier in Paris and debuted her first collection of knitwear in 1927, and later that year, she designed a black-and-white pullover hand-knit wool sweater featuring a trompe l’oeil bowknot that captured the attention of the fashion world. Vogue called it “an artistic masterpiece.” The success led to her moving her house to 21 Place Vendôme in 1935 where thousands of garments were produced each year.
Schiaparelli’s knitwear collections were later accompanied by revolutionary swimsuits and other clothing and accessories. Her inventive designs would include culottes — a radical statement in the 1930s when women still could cause a scandal by wearing pants — as well as printed fabric, such as the 1938 Tears dress with a print designed by Dalí making it appear as if the evening gown had been savagely ripped.
Schiaparelli was among the first designers to use materials like rayon and Lurex as well as explore wrap dresses and transparent raincoats. She also introduced unisex fragrances and brought her artistic partnerships into jewelry, such as bronze brooches made with Alberto Giacometti and fur-lined bracelets with Méret Oppenheim. As she wrote in her 1954 autobiography Shocking Life, women should “dare to be different.”
Despite her acclaim, her shop closed in 1954 after a tumultuous time during World War II. By then, fashion had moved on with Christian Dior's New Look, and the closure of Schiaparelli's business coincided with a comeback mounted by Coco Chanel, her archrival in the early days.
In 2006, Italian businessman Diego Della Valle acquired the brand and its archives, and the Maison Schiaparelli was reopened in 2012, back at 21 Place Vendôme where Schiaparelli's fearless and enduring work began.
Find vintage Elsa Schiaparelli hats, evening dresses and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Alpharetta, GA
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Vintage Karl Lagerfeld 24k gold plate Faux Pearls Fork Brooch, 1990sBy Karl LagerfeldLocated in New York, NYVintage brooch by Karl Lagerfeld features fork with tines made of faux pearls 24k gold plate. Signed. KL monograms. Period: 1990s Condition: very good Length – 5.25” /13 cm ....Category
1990s French Romantic Brooches
- Vintage Karl Lagerfeld Red Enamel Gold Plated Shovel Pin Brooch, 1990sBy Karl LagerfeldLocated in New York, NYVintage rare shovel pin brooch by Karl Lagerfeld. Made from gold plated metal and red enamel. Period: 1990s Condition: very good, light scratches throughout metal. ........Additiona...Category
1990s French Art Nouveau Brooches
MaterialsEnamel
- Vintage Boucher Jelly Belly leaves enamel rhinestones brooch, 1980sBy Boucher JewelersLocated in New York, NYVintage Jelly Belly brooch by Boucher. Features enamel leaves on lucite core. Embellished with rhinestones. Rare. Signed. Measurements: Length...Category
Vintage 1980s American Contemporary Brooches
MaterialsEnamel
- Vintage AUGUSTINE PARIS by Thierry Gripoix Pink Flower brooch, 1990sBy Maison GripoixLocated in New York, NYFantastic vintage brooch made of Gripoix pate de verre featuring flower in pink color with green leaves. Gold plated metal. Signed AUGUSTINE Paris. ...Category
1990s French Brooches
- Vintage Coro Parrot Duette Brooch-Fur Clip, 1940sBy CoroLocated in New York, NYVintage iconic brooch by Coro features two parrots on a tree branch. Lavishly decorated with rhinestones and accented with colorful enamel det...Category
Vintage 1940s American Art Nouveau Brooches
- Vintage brooch with garnet and pearlsLocated in New York, NYVintage gold-tone brooch with garnet stone and pearls Period – 1950s Length – 5 cm Condition – very good .......Additional information ........ - Photo might be slightly differe...Category
Vintage 1950s French Art Deco Brooches
- Victorian 18 Karat Gold Old Cut Diamond Pearl Agate Bow Shell Shape Pin BroochLocated in Vilnius, LTThis is a delicate Victorian bow shell shape pin brooch crafted in 18K gold. Circa 1890. The piece features a carved shell shape agate. There is a pearl in the centre. The bow is ad...Category
Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches
MaterialsAgate, Diamond, Pearl, Gold
- Renaissance Portrait Cameo of Emperor Vespasian in a Gold BroochLocated in Chicago, ILPortrait Cameo of Emperor Vespasian in a Gold Brooch Agate, gold Italy?, 16th century Weight 10.2 gr.; Dimensions 48.7 × 39 mm. Description: Three-layered agate cameo (black-white-...Category
Antique 16th Century Italian Brooches
MaterialsAgate, Gold
- Pair of Lea Stein Mandarin Brooch Pins Estate JewelryBy Lea SteinLocated in Los Angeles, CALea Stein vintage Art Deco style a pair of Mandarin brooch pins These are very RARE. Beautiful color way in purple, blue and cream V shaped heat mounted pin, SIGNED - Lea Stein PARIS...Category
Vintage 1960s French Modernist Brooches
- Diamond Enamel Gold Baby Shoe Charm Safety Pin BroochLocated in New York, NY18k gold safety pin brooch, with 3 baby shoes suspended. All set with a total of approx. 0.70ctw in diamonds and red/pink gemstones. Each shoe meas...Category
20th Century Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Gold, Enamel
- 7.50 Carat VVS Diamond and Colombian Emerald PinLocated in Miami, FLExquisite in its elegance, this 14K white gold ring features a remarkable 2-carat emerald cut Colombian emerald, showcasing its vivid green hue and intense fire. Surrounding the emer...Category
21st Century and Contemporary European Art Deco Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Emerald, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
- 18k White Gold VINTAGE. DIAMOND AND EMERALD PINLocated in Miami, FLCrafted in elegant 18K white gold, this antique pin showcases a round Colombian emerald, radiating its natural allure. Adorned with all-white diamonds of VS clarity and F color, this piece exudes sophistication and charm. With its timeless design and European flair, it's a captivating accessory for any discerning jewelry lover. Key Features: 18K White Gold, 100% natural earth mined round Colombian Emerald. All white diamonds. VS clarity and F color. Antique gold and emerald pin...Category
2010s European Edwardian Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Emerald, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
You Saw It at the Met Ball. Here’s What Camp Fashion Is Really About
This year's Costume Institute exhibition is all about embracing the eccentric.
The Met’s Latest Blockbuster Tells a Powerful Story through 230 Jewels
A captivating show at the Manhattan museum explores how jewelry has ornamented the body through the millennia — and redefines it as high art.